Butterick 5927: The Red Reptile Jacket aka the Late Jungle January Entry

I had every intention of stitching this as part of Pretty Grievances' annual Jungle January, but you know the saying about best laid plans...  Besides, if I had finished it in January the pictures would have been taken before I had a mid-winter tan from spending a week on the beach in Florida!

I started the jacket on Jan. 13 (per my Instagram pic) and finished it Feb. 19 (also per my Instagram).  Not because this jacket  is difficult to sew, but because life got busy.  


Let's talk about this FABULOUS fabric!  I purchased the fabric online from Emma One Sock in January 2014.  Described as "This smart and stylish brocade from Nicole Miller is fabulous (much more so in real life)! It's a medium-to-heavier suiting-weight, a tightly woven jacquard weave with a reflective sheen, and a reptile design in an iridescent weave of red and purple." She wasn't kidding - the fabric looks amazing in real life (and is very hard to photograph). 

The jacket is view C from Butterick 5927.  I made a few alterations to the jacket pattern:  a 3/4" FBA (Full Bust Adjustment), lowered the bust point 1/2", a small forward should adjustment, and a small sway back adjustment.

The front facing is interfaced, per the pattern instructions, and I also added interfacing along the front edge (where the zipper is inserted) as well as the upper back. In retrospect, I also should have interfaced the jacket and sleeve hem edges. I used Pro-Weft Supreme Light interfacing (from Fashion Sewing Supply). 

The pattern calls for an 18" separating zipper. I had a 20" on hand, and since I hate to shorten zippers I added 2" to the length of the jacket.   Except I forgot to do that to the pattern and I had everything cut out before I remembered. Oops!  

So I cut strips on the cross grain (so I would haven't match the pattern) to get the length I needed. 

The jacket pattern is rated "easy" and I agree with the rating - if you don't follow the pattern instructions.  I thought some of the instructions were odd, like adding the lining and then inserting the zipper into the turned under front opening and facing edges. I stitched my zipper (see blue line below) to the jacket before adding the lining, tapering the top of the zipper tape so it would be hidden inside the seam.

 

The instructions for the lining included a lot of handsewing so I pulled a book from my sewing library "Easy Guide to Sewing Linings" by Connie Long to help me remember how to bag the lining. It always looks so funny when you stitch the jacket and lining sleeve hems together!

I also drafted a center back neck facing as I didn't want the lining to go all the way to the neck edge.

I knew the shape of this jacket would be boxy, but as I tried it on during the construction process I was pretty disappointed with how it was looking.

I changed a few things as I sewed the jacket to help with the fit. The sleeves!  Ugh. They were so wide and unflattering.  I had to shorten them (which is not an unusual alteration for me, but these seemed really long) and narrow them from the elbow to the wrist.

To help give more shape in the shoulder area, I added a sleeve head by cutting batting 1-1/2" wide. I measured from the armhole front notch to back notch for the length. Then I hand stitched it in place in the seam allowance.  I also added the 1/4" shoulder pad (which the pattern lists as optional).

I took the jacket in about an inch on the side seams starting right below the bust dart. It's still boxy, but not so boxy that it looks sloppy.

You can't really see it in this FABULOUS fabric, but there are pockets in the center front princess seams.

I did eliminate the topstitching along the neck edge, front zipper edge and hem. 

I'm very pleased with the final jacket. You know it's a winner when the first time you wear it you receive multiple compliments!

 

Would I sew another? Nope!  Well, maybe. After all, I now have the fit issues resolved. You'll just have to stay tuned and find out.

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